Concrete Treat: News & Events

Waterproof Paint, Plastic Vapor Barrier, Or Concrete Sealer?

Posted by Concrete Treat on February 14, 2012 No comments

What To Use To Control Moisture & Humidity In Your Basement

Generally speaking, homeowners now recognize the importance of creating a vapor barrier on their walls. Whether through waterproof paint, a plastic vapor barrier, a penetrating concrete sealer, or some other method, creating this barrier will prevent water vapor from seeping through the pores of concrete.

In a finished basement, a vapor barrier will protect drywall and insulation from the moisture buildup that would otherwise lead to mold, mildew, and humidity passing through the concrete walls and floors located within the space. In an unfinished basement or cellar, sealing the walls and floor will create a drier environment, protecting stored items from rot and mold, and helping to control that musty smell that’s notoriously present in below-grade spaces.

However, there are a lot of basements out there – and a lot of companies competing to earn your consumer dollar on products that will help to control that moisture intrusion. And, like all things in the home improvement industry, some work better than others.

Let’s take a look at the three most common methods of moisture control:

1. Waterproof Paint

Most popular among do-it-yourselfers, many homeowners will opt for waterproof coatings and paints that are available at most local box stores. These products sport big promises, low cost, and seductive warranties that make them look like they’re a foolproof choice for any basement.

Unfortunately, these products have three major weaknesses:

A Non-Penetrating Formula: These paints and coatings are surface-level only, and have a comparatively weak bond on your concrete surfaces. If this coating is used on surfaces that are dirty, the will peel off. They are also a weak choice for high-traffic areas of floor, where the surface coating can peel off.
Poor Resistance To High Alkalinity Levels: There’s a lot of chemistry going on in the concrete walls of a basement – and the moisture that passes through may be highly alkaline. This is particularly true if your basement walls are new, and haven’t completed the years-long curing process. This alkalinity can break the bonds of surface coatings, causing them to blister and peel off.
Vulnerability To Efflorescence Buildup: Along with moisture, minerals also pass through your basement walls. As the moisture evaporates or recedes, it can leave these minerals in the form of a white, powdery mineral salt known as efflorescence. As this builds up, it can also compromise the bond of paints and coatings. Read your warranty carefully, and you’ll see that it probably doesn’t cover walls with efflorescence!

To make matters worse, once these coatings fail, they can be extremely troublesome to remove. You’ll be working quite hard on those ugly, blistering, peeling walls – and most likely, you’ll be renting some equipment as well!

2. Plastic Vapor Barriers

Whether rigid or pliable, plastic vapor barriers are a good choice for preventing moisture that comes through basement walls. Because they attach mechanically to the walls, there is no concern of peeling or detaching from the walls as there is with waterproof paint. Additionally, this is the only solution that can also intercept water flooding through cracks in the concrete – ones that would otherwise bypass sealers and paint coatings. This flooding water would be directed to a perimeter drain system, presuming you have one in place. Typically, the seal is made permanent with epoxy or caulk along the top and seams.

Plastic vapor barriers install fairly quickly, and there’s no VOC’s or drying time to worry about. They can give a basement a brighter, more cheerful appearance, or they can be used behind finished walls.

There are three disadvantages to plastic vapor barriers

Cost: The cost to buy, cut, and attach plastic vapor barriers can be much higher than simply applying a concrete sealer or waterproof paint.
Mold Concerns: What happens to the moisture that collects behind this plastic vapor barrier? Many homeowners voice concerns of mold and mildew growth, although there is little scientific evidence to support a health issue of mold behind a sealed vapor barrier.
Not Ideal For Floors: While this is a great option for the walls, it’s a less-than-impressive option for the floors. On a very flat floor, plastic floor tiles (without chipboard present) can be a possible vapor barrier substitute, but these tend to click and make noise on less even surfaces.

Despite the disadvantages, these vapor barriers provide a permanent solution, where applicable, and could be considered for moisture control in many homes.

3. Concrete Sealers

For the purpose of this article, we’ll discuss sliane-based concrete sealers. These sealers penetrate deep into the pores of the concrete, activating with the minerals in the concrete to create a glasslike barrier deep within the concrete. They’re safe to use indoors, and contain little or no VOC’s (brand depending).

Sliane-based concrete sealers activate quickly, and can be applied to both cured and newly-placed concrete. They will not change the appearance of the concrete, efflorescence and acidity will not harm them, and they’re able to be painted over with ease. Installation is fast (done with a brush, roller, or sprayer), and they’re middle-of-the-road in overall cost.

Three disadvantages to consider are as follows:

Provides Moisture Control ONLY: Unlike plastic vapor barriers, this will not be able to breach cracks or stop flooding water. It’s meant only as a sealer for water vapor that would otherwise pass through the pores of the concrete.
Take Care When Installing: Sliane-based sealers cause etching on glass, should they come in contact with it. When installing, be sure to protect and/or avoid glass surfaces.
Possible to Overapply: Waterproof paints can be coated thickly, thinly, or in multiple layers, and it’s impossible to overapply a plastic barrier. But an installer should be careful to only use enough sliane-based sealer to damp the concrete, as too much will leave a white residue behind.

Sliane-based sealers are the ideal choice for basements that are damp but do not flood, as they are inexpensive, install quickly and subtly, and provide a lasting solution.

Concrete Treat Visits Menke Bros.

Posted by Concrete Treat on October 17, 2011 No comments

Menke Bros Concrete Construction Headquartes In Ohio

Menke Brothers has been a leader in concrete construction since 1974. They were recognized at the World Of Concrete convention in Las Vegas as one of the nation's leaders in the industry.

Concrete Treat recently paid a visit to Menke Bros. (Fort Jennings, OH) to check out their facility in person.

We were immediately impressed by what we saw! Their headquarters was equipped with a fleet of machinery, including a stone slinger, mini-excavator, boom trucks, and many others. There’s a lot going on!

We met with Matt Menke himself, who showed us around the facility and told us a little about his business. Menke Bros. has been in business for more than 30 years, and currently builds about 200 residential foundations per year, on top of their ongoing commercial construction projects.

Concrete Blankets Vs. Concrete Treat

While we were being shown around, we asked Mr. Menke to explain to us how they’ve been using Concrete Treat in the company’s construction projects. He told us that in concrete construction that does not include fly ash in the concrete, it can be effectively used to replace concrete blankets, as a faster, more effective option for new construction.

From what he told us, the advantages of using Concrete Treat over concrete curing blankets can be summed up in three major points:

Concrete blankets weighed down with wood boards to help prevent them from blowing away in the wind.

Concrete blankets are easily blown around by wind, making them difficult to install properly. Once installed, it is common for them to blow back off the concrete they protect.

1. A Faster, More Convenient Process

Matt took us outside to demonstrate firsthand the difficulties of concrete blankets by placing some next to his building.

It had been raining earlier that day, and the wind was still strong, whipping the concrete blankets around as we tried to install them. This made the installation process frustrating and inconvenient; in the end, it took three people to lay them properly on the ground, with wooden board sections anchoring them in place.

Concrete Treat provides a much easier installation. Simply spray it evenly over cured or newly-placed surfaces, and your installation is complete and ready to go.

A concrete curing blanket showing rips and tears in the material

Tears showing in a concrete curing blanket

2. Cost & Scheduling

It’s not uncommon for a concrete blanket to cost more than $300, delivered. Along with this, the need for concrete blankets creates a continuous ordering hassle, as well as a possible scheduling issue if no blankets are in stock when they’re needed by the crews.

Additionally, the need to install concrete blankets adds extra steps to the construction process. The blankets will need to be loaded on the truck, placed, removed, and hauled away. Depending on where the construction site is located, these expensive blankets may also be stolen.

A concrete blanket with insulation bunched up all on one side.

The insulation in this concrete blanket has bunched up on one side, a common problem with this product.

3. Quality & Value To The Client

Concrete blankets are flimsy, easily torn, and will quickly wear out and need replacement. And while they protect the concrete from spalling damage, their application can mark and scuff the newly placed concrete.

On the other hand, applying Concrete Treat to a concrete surface will not only eliminate the need for concrete blankets, but also add value to the completed project. For years after Concrete Treat is applied, it will operate as a vapor barrier on all treated concrete, protecting organic materials (such as wood and carpet) laid on a concrete slab and promoting a drier basement.

Wrapping Up Our Visit With Menke Bros…

This was a great opportunity to get some feedback from some real experts that have used Concrete Treat for years. We enjoyed seeing their headquarters up close and personal — where all the “magic” happens!

Walk For Autism in Colt Park, RI

Our day spent at the Walk For Autism was a fantastic time — a beautiful day, an enormous turnout, and a lot of money raised for an excellent cause! The weather was ideal — warm, bright, and beautiful — for the entire event.

Jonas, the child with Autism that we were sponsoring for this event, had a wonderful time on the walk as well, but what he was really excited about was the inflatable slide and play area he visited afterwards. Many members of his family, including his grandparents, attended the walk as well to show their support.

We all felt energized by the large turnout, with 14 people for Team Jonas alone, and easily a thousand other participants. The people who walked with us were from all walks of life — it was inspiring to see them all come together for such an amazing cause. We’re looking forward to sponsoring the event again next year — come join us, if you can!

Jonas, with his loving mother.

What’s Your Dehumidifier Up Against?

Posted by Concrete Treat on September 14, 2011 No comments

When Dehumidifiers Fail To Dry Basements…

Many of the most frequently asked questions we get at PPK, Inc. are united around a common theme: the homeowner has installed a dehumidifier in their basement, and the space is still supporting mold growth. The space doesn’t feel any less humid, and the system is running nonstop.

Typically, the homeowner’s next step is either of the following:

They buy and run an extra dehumidifier (or two)
They give up, call it a bust, and live with a moldy basement.

Let’s take a look at what some of these dehumidifiers are up against…

The Victim

Right off the bat, I can see three serious issues here:

The dehumidifier has no discharge tube draining the water away
The washing machine is discharging into this sink (black pipe on right)
The discharge tube is dripping on the metal surface that the dehumidifier is lying on. I know this because the wood propping the dehumidifier up is showing signs of water damage and rot.

All of these things are compromising the dehumidifier and contributing to high humidity levels directly around the system. The homeowner also told us that using this sink as a discharge outlet for the washing machine had partially clogged the sink. It takes several hours for the sink to drain a load completely after it’s done with a cycle.

Home Dehumidifier Or Basement Dehumidifier?

One thing the homeowner did right was to purchase a dehumidifier that was designed for lower temperatures. Far too often, a homeowner will opt for a dehumidifier system that’s been rated for the warmer temperatures upstairs — usually about 75°F. However, it’s not uncommon for a basement’s temperature to drop as low as 55°F-60°F.

Why does this matter? A dehumidifier operates by passing air over a cold coil stored within the system. As the air cools, moisture is dropped on the cold coil in the form of condensation, and is then drained away. It takes a lot more power to cool air at a lower temperature.

If you put a home dehumidifier in a basement, it will operate at a small fraction of its rated capacity. And worse, the cold coil can freeze in the cooler temperatures, causing the system to either turn off or malfunction. Running a dehumidifier specifically designed for a cooler, below-grade space is ideal.

Open Sump Pit Blues

Next on the list of culprits, there was this:

Located about a foot away from the dehumidifier, this open-lid sump system is a disaster in the making. The sludge-filled stone around the edges of the liner has been releasing a musty stink into the basement, while the liner is nearly always filled with pools of water. Some of the wood planks are laying over the top of the liner in an attempt to do I-don’t-know-what, and one is actually sitting INSIDE of the sump pump liner.

What kind of chance does the dehumidifier have when this thing is right next to it?

Flooding Basement Hatchway Doors

If it had any chance at all, that chance is certainly destroyed by this:

Ah, yes. The clear product of years upon years of significant flooding. Poor grading outdoors has caused water to puddle around the outside of these hatchway doors, while the gutters above drench water down upon it. It doesn’t help that the baseboard drain in front of it is completely nonfunctional, either! (Fun fact: A 1″ rainfall drops about 500 gallons of water on the average roof.)

With every heavy rain, the basement floods through the drain, the floor, the walls, the stairs, the windows… everywhere. In fact, during the recent hurricane (Irene), it sounded like faucets were turned on throughout the space!

Case in point:

Remember: A dehumidifier is not a sump pump!

Are You Running Your Dehumidifier Nonstop?

That’s… not such a good idea.

Here’s the consequences of running an overwhelmed dehumidifier in the basement:

The basement is still moldy and humid
The dehumidifier is running nonstop

And, last but not least, this:

The difference between June, July and August? The dehumidifier was running. On the bill itself, this proved to be about a $60 spike in the bill, or about 6 kWh/day. That was decidedly NOT what the homeonwer was expecting or hoping for!

So You Want A Dry Basement…

Perfect! Who doesn’t? You can achieve this goal in three simple steps:

Your first step to a dry basement should be to eliminate all sources of groundwater flooding with a system that works. Get a reliable battery backup system to run during power outages, such as the one that the entire state of Connecticut for about a week after Hurricane Irene struck. For this, you should hire a specialist (a basement waterproofer, not a plumber), ideally, one that offers a warranted solution.
Next, seal off any ventilation your basement is using. Basement ventilation is an outdated building practice that is quickly being phased out of code. It’s been proven that bringing outdoor air into the humid environment in a basement is counterproductive — and is also a major drain on your utility bills!
Humidity enters a basement constantly through the walls and floors. Invest a little money and get a high-quality, penetrating concrete sealer to seal out the moisture. This will reduce the load on your dehumidifier, prolonging its life and saving you money. We defintiely do not recommend using a waterproof paint product on your walls and floors, or any other “coating” product. Coatings work some of the time, but they can also do more damage than good.
Invest in a powerful, energy efficient dehumidifier. They’ll cost several times more than the cheap models, but, then again, they’ll get the job done (Isn’t that what you want it to do?). Your system should be self-draining — that way, you don’t have the daily chore of emptying the collection tray, and the system doesn’t shut off every 8-12 hours as it fills. Find one that can remove at least 80 pints per day, and one with a blower that will circulate dry air everywhere.

Please bear in mind that Concrete Treat seals the concrete only — it will not be able to close cracks (We’re working on a product for that!), nor will it be able to waterproof the basement. Only by waterproofing, sealing, and THEN dehumidifying can you count on a dry, healthy basement.

Can Fiberglass Insulation Grow Mold?

Posted by Concrete Treat on August 24, 2011 No comments

Fiberglass batt insulation installed in the joists over a basement

Fiberglass batt insulation (glass wool) installed inside the floor joists in a basement.

There’s been a great debate in recent years over how effective fiberglass insulation is when installed in a moist environment.

Old school contractors swear by it, claiming that it is moldproof and appropriate for installation in basement and crawl space environments.

Newer building science thinking pins fiberglass insulation as a terrible idea for below-grade spaces, citing its being ruined by damage by mold, rot, and humidity.

Then old-school contractors retort that it’s the lack of ventilation, not the fiberglass itself that is the culprit. And the debate rages on and on.

So What’s The Scoop? Can Fiberglass Support Mold?

Let’s take a practical look at this. Fiberglass is made with:

Glass (Usually 20%-30% recycled industrial waste and post-consumer product)
Dyes (Fiberglass is not naturally pink!)
Paper Backing (Optional, but very common)
Resins (Optional — binds the fiberglass to the paper backing)

Of these, I think we can agree that at least two (the paper backing and resins) can support mold growth.

The proof, friends, is in the pudding. See below:

OK, so fair enough. But what about fiberglass without paper backing? That should work, right? Except that fiberglass is porous and absorbent.

Consider these two points:

Fiberglass can capture dust and dirt, holding it in its fibers, where mold can grow.
Fiberglass can soak up moisture like a sponge and hold it against structural wood.

Exhibit A: Fiberglass Filled With Dust, Dirt, & Debris

In this case, a leaking air duct from an old HVAC system has been blowing air into this fiberglass insulation for quite some time. And unless the HVAC system has been properly maintained (it hasn’t), then you can be sure there’s plenty of mold spores in that dust as well. The fiberglass has essentially served as an air filter — one that needs to be replaced.

Exhibit B: Wet Fiberglass Leading To Wood Damage

In this case, a slow plumbing leak several feet away had soaked the fiberglass insulation for several feet around it with light moisture. In some areas, the fiberglass insulation had sunk and fallen off the ceiling, while it remained moist but in place in other spots.

In the places where it held in place, it sponged up the moisture and held it in place against the structural wood for months. Eventually, the slow leak was discovered (a difficult challenge in an already wet basement that is rarely used) and was removed.

This is what we found behind it:

The floor above is springy and weak, sagging down underfoot.

Now, of course, the plumbing leak was the real issue in this case. But the fiberglass, which held the moisture in and hid the problem for the homeowner, certainly didn’t help.

What Kind Of Insulation Should I Use Instead?

An image of a large open gap around an air duct in a basement

Air gaps are built into your home as it's built. Contractors create these gaps as they install air ducts, wires, and pipes in your home.

Instead of installing fiberglass insulation on your floor joists, we suggest that you consider rigid foam insulation on the basement walls.

While it’s a bit more expensive than installing fiberglass, the savings are definitely there. In fact, the US Department of Energy reports that as much as $400/year can be saved simply by insulating your basement walls!

The problem with fiberglass insulation installed in the floor joists is this: Insulation is only effective when it can be installed in an unbroken sheet.

However, when fiberglass is installed in the joists, there are boundless opportunities for air to circumvent the insulation.

Pathways for insulation include around gaps in the basement door, up through laundry chutes, and through open gaps around air vents, pipes, wires, and more.

Transforming the basement into insulated space will also provide the benefit of protecting utilities stored in the space (HVAC systems, water heaters, furnaces, hot water pipes, and hot air ducts) from the colder environment. And if your basement DOES flood, foam insulation will not soak up moisture, grow rot, or be ruined and need replacement.

Since you’re protecting the materials in the basement from water anyways, you should consider sealing the floors will also help to protect carpets from mold by holding back water vapor that would otherwise pass through the concrete slab.

The Moral Of This Story

If you’re installing fiberglass batt insulation in a finished basement, it can support mold growth. It holds dirt, dust, and debris inside the fibers, and it soaks up moisture like a sponge. Wet insulation sags, opening holes in the insular sheet. And, really, fiberglass insulation has little or no insular value when it’s soaked with moisture anyways!

Moisture can enter a basement through the walls in many ways, including:

Water leakage through existing and newly-created cracks in the wall
Water leakage around pipe penetrations in the walls
Water vapor passing directly through the pores of the concrete
Moisture soaked upward during a flood in the basement

Before finishing your basement, be sure to address all sources of leakage and waterproof the basement. You should seal the concrete and install a plastic vapor barrier on the walls to prevent water vapor from building up behind the walls and creating a moisture issue. We do not recommend coating the walls with waterproof paints or installing fiberglass batt insulation. Instead, install rigid foam insulation on all foundation wall surfaces in the basement.

To seal concrete in a basement, we recommend Concrete Treat: Concrete Sealer & Blanket. Our sealant is ideal for do-it-yourselfers — it applies safely and easily, and it dries in just 2-4 hours. There’s no odor, and your concrete will not change in appearance. You can even paint over it if you’d like!

You can buy our concrete sealer directly online, or you can give us a call at (203) 376-9180!

Sidewalk Spalling: Just How Bad Does It Get?

Posted by Concrete Treat on July 2, 2011 No comments

Heavy Concrete Spalling on a local sidewalk in the area.

Several failed attempts to repair this spalling concrete sidewalk have left it looking like a disaster! Had they sealed the concrete and maintained it, all this could have been avoided.

When it comes to poor design for concrete sidewalks, town and city governments are among the greatest offenders. At Concrete Treat, we’ve seen it all — damaged sidewalks, botched repairs, and extensive problems like the mess shown in the picture on the right.

Spalling concrete is more than an eyesore: on a sidewalk, it can also be a tripping hazard, or present a safety issue for pedestrians who are trying to navigate on the rugged concrete surface. And once concrete spalling begins, you’ll have an ongoing maintenance and repair battle on your hands.

Causes Of Concrete Spalling

Sections of concrete sidewalk showing extensive damage from scaling, flaking, and spalling.

Concrete surfaces begin to spall when damaged by freezing, expanding water under the concrete surface.

Concrete spalling is caused during cold and thaw seasons. Water seeps below the surface of the concrete, becoming trapped underneath. As this water freezes, it expands, pushing upwards on the surface of the concrete. Over time, this will cause the concrete’s surface to chip, scale, or flake off, leaving an unsightly mess behind.

Along with freezing water damage, concrete can also spall for two other significant reasons:

1. Rebar Corrosion: As the steel rebar in concrete begins to rust, it will also expand. Over time, this expansion due to rust will press significantly on concrete surfaces, causing the concrete to spall.

2. Rock Salt Forming Subflorescence: Rock salt is a highly damaging force to concrete surfaces. Along with enhancing the freeze/thaw cycle of water and enhancing that damage, rock salt is also left behind in the concrete as the water evaporates. As this rock salt crystalizes, it expands, eventually breaking down concrete.

Preventing Concrete Sidewalk Spalling

Concrete Treat can be used to help prevent water from entering into your concrete, by penetrating deep into the concrete’s pores and sealing them from within. Sealing your concrete can also help make it easier to clean, easier to remove ice from, and will protect your concrete surfaces from some de-icer salts and chemicals. It can be applied easily with a spray applicator, roller, paintbrush, or other applicator by anyone — quickly and easily.

Learn more about Sealing Your Concrete With Concrete Treat.

More Photos From The Same Visit

PPK, Inc. Supports Team Jonas In Walk For Autism

Posted by Concrete Treat on June 20, 2011 No comments

As part of our efforts to support good causes in the non-profit sector, PPK, Inc. is helping to support Team Jonas, a local team in the 2011 Walk Now For Autism Speaks. We’ve made a donation and will also be participating in the walk on Saturday, September 19, 2011. Join us at Colt State Park in Bristol, RI! Registration is at 9:30am, and the walk starts at 10:30am.

Walk Now is the signature fundraising event for the charity organization Autism Speaks, and has been running annually since February 2005. Autism Speaks is an organization dedicated to increasing awareness of autism spectrum disorders, including research for the causes, prevention and treatment of autism. They’re also dedicated to advocating the needs of individuals who happen to have autism, as well as their families.

We’re glad for the opportunity to contribute to this wonderful, worthy causes, and we’re looking forward to participating in their annual walk in September!

We’d also like to encourage you to Donate to Team Jonas, and help us make a difference in the lives of these individuals. Or, if you’d like to join in a walk (or start a team of your own), there might be an event in your area!

Concrete Treat Visits Superior Stone To Apply Concrete Sealer

Posted by Concrete Treat on December 23, 2010 2 comments

The staff at Concrete Treat recently visited Superior Stone Supply (3876 Witney Avenue, Hamden, CT) to apply Concrete Treat to the newly installed paving stones around their entryway. Our visit was about an hour long, during which time we sealed the concrete paving stones to protect them from salt, ice, and from stains from the cars that would be parking on them.

Since we were applying Concrete Treat to concrete paving stones, we thought we’d share a little bit about our visit, including how we applied our product and what it looked like during installation.

Concrete Treat can easily be applied to indoor concrete, outdoor concrete, and newly placed concrete by any contractor, homeowner, or construction company.

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Our Newest Concrete Treat Contractor

Superior Stone streetside sign, with the paving stones they install and seal shown in the background.

Superior Stone is an installer of interlocking stone pavers, retaining walls, landscaping, and outdoor supplies. They’ve served Hamden, New Haven, and the surrounding counties since 1985.

Superior Stone became a Concrete Treat distributor and applicator this past fall, and since then, they’ve been applying our concrete sealer in many of their paving stone jobs.

I’d never seen their home office before, and, frankly, I was impressed! They have a wonderful showroom, complete with a working fireplace, that was cozy and installed with wall-to-wall options for homeowners interested in installing stonework on the inside or outside of their home.

On the outside of their office, they had wonderful options on display for homeowners wanting to install a paving stone patio, walkway, or garden area.

We had one eye out for their “Mobile Showroom”, but were told that it was on the road, serving customers elsewhere in the state.

The overall ambiance of the area was warm and inviting, and Bill Mastrangelo Jr., the owner, was a friendly, professional man. It’s no wonder his company’s been in business for more than 25 years!

Applying Our Concrete Sealer

a contractor using a sprayer to apply concrete treat to already installed concrete paving stones

Once applied, Concrete Treat will dry in just 2-4 hours. It’s colorless, unaffected by UV rays, and will not change the appearance of your concrete. It can be applied in freezing temperatures — as low as 28°F and rising.

To apply Concrete Treat quickly and effectively, we found a Roundup Lawn & Garden Sprayer to work very well. That kind of spray applicator will generally cost about $20, and can be found at any hardware store. We also used a Cobra Spray Applicator, which are manufactured in Harrisburg, PA.

Applying Concrete Treat to the entire display took approximately a half hour. A single coating of Concrete Treat is all that’s ever needed, and it was easy to see if the concrete was “wet” with the concrete sealer just by looking at it.

We didn’t need any special protection while applying Concrete Treat, as it’s non-toxic and safe to use. This would also have been the case if we’d used it indoors.

Additionally, we did not need to worry about walking on the areas damp with the sealer — it did not affect the treatment, nor did it damage our shoes, skin, or clothes. There was no odor from the sealer at all when we were applying it, and it had the consistency of water overall.

Applying Our Concrete Sealer On Already-Sealed Concrete

a dry spot surrounded by wet spots on the concrete paving stones. This is where our concrete sealer was applied, which will no longer let water in

One interesting thing that happened while we were applying Concrete Treat: We came across an area where we had done a test section for the people of Superior Stone some weeks before.

In the picture on the right, you can see that where we had previously coated several paving stones with Treat, the area remained dry during our second application.

This is because the original layer of Concrete Treat had already completely sealed the paving stones, keeping even the second coat of Concrete Treat sealed out of the concrete.

You will never need to apply Concrete Treat to concrete more than once. In fact, a second coating could potentially lead to spotting on the surface and should be avoided entirely.

Concrete paving stones that have Concrete Treat drying and sealing the pores of the concrete. This picture was taken approximately 20 minutes after application.

A Fast Solution For Sealing Concrete Pavers

Before the application of Concrete Treat was completed, the areas where we had started were already beginning to dry, giving the paving stones an interesting appearance.

As it’s drying, concrete that has been sealed with Concrete Treat may look like the surface is slightly white. This is a temporary condition only — the concrete will be indistinguishable from its previous appearance within the 2-4 hour period. In fact, we had no idea where the “test run” area was that we mentioned eariler until we actually wetted the concrete.

The treated paving stone area was available for public use before it was completely dry. Within an hour of beginning to apply Concrete Treat, customers were parking their cars on the paving stones, walking on them, and using the space normally. The sealer was not affected at all by the rain that came soon afterwards.

Sealing Paving Stones With Concrete Treat

water beading up on sealed concrete paving stones

Closeup of water beading on the surface of concrete paving stones at Superior Stone. The pavers have been sealed with Concrete Treat.

Concrete Treat is a clear product that will never yellow or change its color over time. It will protect your concrete from spalling, chipping, flaking, efflorescence, moisture, salts, de-icers, and stains from oil and other materials.

By the time the job was done, we had used six gallons of Concrete Treat on the paving stones. Since one gallon of Concrete Treat is enough to treat 300 square feet of concrete, we needed that much to complete 1,700 square foot area.

Even before the Concrete Treat we’d applied had finished drying, it had already begun to protect the concrete from moisture. We tested out one area of the concrete by spraying water from a hose on the surface — and sure enough, water immediately began to bead there.

This was an easy installation! Any homeowner or contractor can easily apply Concrete Treat with a sprayer, roller, brush, or other application method quickly and easily.

If you have any questions about Concrete Treat or would like to order by phone, please call us at (203) 376-9180 today!

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Sealing Your Concrete With Concrete Treat

Posted by Concrete Treat on November 27, 2010 2 comments

Protect New or Previously Cured Concrete With Our Innovative Concrete Sealing & Spalling Protection Product

Concrete Treat is effective in both new concrete construction applications and in moisture-sealing in cured concrete. Once applied to concrete, it will harden in 2-4 hours, creating a glasslike vapor barrier seal. Once applied, the concrete is protected from moisture from rain, snow, and other forces– moisture that can seep below the concrete, freeze, and “pop” off the concrete’s finished surface.

In new construction, it’s proven to prevent concrete damage, such as spalling, scaling, flaking, or chipping that occurs during freezing temperatures. One 5-gallon container of Concrete Treat is able to treat up to 1,500 square feet. Click to learn more about third-party Concrete Treat product testing that has been conducted!

To order Concrete Treat today, or to contact us with questions, call or e-mail us today!

Application Guidelines for Concrete Treat

Installing the concrete blanket alternative on wet concrete in new construction

Concrete Treat is applied in a single application with an air or airless sprayer. Application is safe, fast, and easy, and Concrete Treat is neither toxic nor caustic.

The concrete sealer product is safe to apply to both wet and dry concrete, but care should be taken that it’s not applied to glass (cover all surfaces where treatment is not intended before spraying). Unlike tars, Concrete Treat will not have grade-line problems.

Unlike waterproof paints and coatings, it is not prone to peeling, flaking, and chipping off the concrete walls within a few months or a couple years.

Concrete Treat can be used effectively on masonry block, pre-cast and poured concrete walls as well as sidewalks, patios, garages, or any other concrete surface.

Concrete Treat arrives ready-to-use in a 5-gallon container. Application is convenient and easy for even the novice homeowner, and no special equipment, other than the sprayer, will be necessary. Concrete Treat can be applied to both the walls and the floors, giving total concrete protection to a basement or crawl space. It’s recommended that Concrete Treat be applied with an applicator whose orifice size is 0.035 inches ensure proper application. Apply until concrete is saturated, without stopping until the area is completely treated. After application, the equipment cleans up easily with soap and water– the seal should dry within 2-4 hours.

Once Concrete Treat has Sealed your Concrete…

New Construction: Your sealed concrete is well-protected from the elements. Concrete Treat will act as a barrier, preventing moisture and salt from invading your porous concrete and damaging the concrete’s surface. Concrete Treat is long-lasting, and it does not yellow or become discolored by ultraviolet rays. It’s been fully tested by SGS US Testing and is proven to stop water without cracking– even in a 20-day freeze/thaw schedule.

For Homeowners: Your concrete’s surface will be ready for painting and coatings, while the sealant keeps humidity from passing through and helps prevent mold growth.

Concrete Treat can help to prepare a basement for finishing by sealing away humidity that would otherwise be trapped behind the basement walls and underneath carpeting, where it would promote rot, mold, and decay. Contact us today by phone or e-mail with your questions and orders!

What Causes Spalling?: A Case Study

Posted by Concrete Treat on November 4, 2010 9 comments

Concrete has two layers: an attractive, smooth, outer surface, and a rough, rocky interior. Concrete spalling occurs when the attractive top layer chips away, revealing that ugly interior material.

In my research, I’ve come across a great many explanations of what causes spalling. Some claim that damage and wear are the primary causes of spalling. Others say that spalling is caused by rebar corrosion. I have also seen it claimed that concrete spalling is caused by “carbonation of the concrete where carbon dioxide reacts to chemicals within the concrete”, while even others say that poor concrete construction habits are the culprit for most spalling issues.

The Real Cause of Spalling

severe spalling damage on a concrete staircase. Paving stones are used between the concrete steps and show no damage

Concrete spalling can ruin the appearance of an otherwise decorative landscaping design. In this case, an ornate latticework fence and appealing stonework design is framed by a badly-spalling concrete staircase.

Concrete is a much more complicated material than it may appear at first. There are many different varieties of concrete, each containing different chemical compositions in different quantities.

Each type of concrete is made for a different purpose, and is used in different weather conditions. The concrete mixture is also affected by building practices, time given for curing, weather conditions, and by how much air is allowed to be mixed into the concrete mixture.

These different mixtures are used in different ways. You’re not likely to use the same type of concrete to build a bridge or dam that you use to design your patio or sidewalk.

Additionally, concrete surfaces are treated in many different ways. Polished surfaces, stamped surfaces, and normal concrete surfaces will all be susceptible to different things. And on top of that, indoor concrete experiences different problems than outdoor concrete.

In the end, spalling happens for a wide variety of reasons, and each type of concrete has its own challenges. While rebar corrosion may be a primary cause of concrete spalling in a building, it may not be the foremost reason for a sidewalk to begin to spall and deteriorate.

As a homeowner or landscaper, your primary concern is probably going to be learning how to prevent spalling of outdoor concrete — such as porches, patios, sidewalks, walkways, and steps. But what causes spalling in this kind of concrete?

How Spalling Occurs In Outdoor Concrete

a concrete railing covered in spalling damage from ice and snow.

Spalling is worst where moisture collects the most. While walkways are often cleared of snow and ice during the winter, it may not be cleared off other surfaces. This can lead to additional spalling on those areas.

When it comes to concrete sidewalks, patios, stairways, and similar outdoor concrete, spalling is most commonly caused by two factors:

1. Freeze/Thaw Cycles

Concrete is a porous, absorbent material filled with air cavities for water to collect within. During cold weather, this moisture will collect between the attractive, finished top surface of concrete and the rough material underneath.

Water expands as it freezes. As the water expands within the concrete, it pushes up against this smooth concrete surface. Over time, this will cause the surface to “pop” off, revealing the ugly concrete below.

2. Improper Use of Concrete De-Icer

De-icer and rock salt are commonly abused products that can often lead to significant damage to concrete.

De-icers and rock salts are meant to be spread lightly on icy concrete surfaces, where they loosen the concrete and make it easier to remove. It’s expected that the concrete de-icer will be removed along with the snow and ice it helps to melt.

When this doesn’t happen, the de-icer seeps into the concrete along with the moisture. There, it lowers the freezing point of water and can lead to additional freeze/thaw cycles when the temperature drops. Additionally, rock salt will remain as the water evaporates, crystallizing beneath the surface. As these rock salt crystals build up, they can push up on the concrete surface as well, contributing to spalling.

Other Causes Of Damage To Outdoor Concrete

a concrete wall showing significant damage from water and ice.

Concrete spalling has ruined the appearance of this otherwise beautiful patio area. By sealing the concrete when it was built, the beauty of this patio could have been preserved.

In the picture to the right (click on the photo to maximize), you can see that the concrete has experienced multiple forms of damage.

Even in the summer, it’s obvious where the water has been allowed to freeze on this concrete. The concrete along the top of the wall is pitted and badly damaged, where snow and ice have collected and led to spalling damage.

As the concrete surface has become more and more damaged and porous, it has begun to absorb stains that the finished surface would have been resistant to.

On the right-hand side of the image, you can see that a metal mounting has also been placed in the concrete, where it has rusted and corroded badly, staining the concrete. The concrete steps on the left-hand side have also been stained by rust damage from an unidentified source that has since been removed.

Outdoor concrete can also be permanently stained by soil, berries from trees, moss and algae, and a wide variety of other types of damage. Removing these stains can be difficult, if not impossible, to do.

Click to learn how to clean outdoor concrete.

Protecting Outdoor Concrete From Spalling

a spalling staircase, with steps showing ice damage but little wear and tear damage

Saying that “wear and tear” is the most common cause of concrete spalling simply doesn’t make sense. If true, wouldn’t the outer edges of these steps show the most wear and tear — and therefore be the most damaged?

When concrete is placed without any protection from the elements, it will eventually become spalled, stained, and damaged.

Your best bet for protecting your concrete from stains and damage is to seal it with a sliane-based concrete sealer before the damage occurs.

Sliane-based sealers work their way deep into the pores of the concrete, where they react with the chemicals of the concrete to create a glasslike barrier within the material.

This glasslike barrier will protect your concrete from damage from water and de-icers by preventing them from being absorbed into the concrete.

As an added benefit, sealing the concrete will also eliminate some of the need for de-icer material, as snow and ice will not be able to seep into the pores and “grip” the concrete as it otherwise would.

Concrete sealers such as Concrete Treat: Concrete Sealer And Blanket will not change the appearance of the concrete. Concrete Treat can be applied easily with a roller, sprayer, or brush, to both newly cured and cured concrete. Once applied, it will dry in just 2-4 hours.

Concrete Treat is available to customers worldwide via our online store. We would also like to invite you to contact us to order by phone, to ask questions, or to inquire about distributor prices. We look forward to hearing from you!!

Concrete Sealer & Blanket Product